For some unknown reason I have struggled emotionally more, in the last month than in the entire previous year. A quick visit home for Christmas only made the distance between my two older children stretch out even further. Getting back on the plane two weeks later had tears flowing all around. When I am in Sri Lanka there are days I feel I could live here for ever, but the void of having two children half a world away is too strong and I know that is what will pull me back home.
The restaurant has been open for 8 weeks "Upali's by Nawaloka" is doing very nicely. We have had some great reviews, and as the case is with any new establishment, some not so great ones.....diners are fickle, we have been in this industry long enough to know there are always teething problems, you deal with them, fix them and move on.
At our pub in Melbourne, I could walk into the kitchen, look at the 20 dockets waiting to be filled, run my eye over the tables in the dining room and in 2 minutes be up to speed. Now I walk into the kitchen and I'm flying blind. Most of the boys don't speak English and the ones that do cannot understand my Australian accent. They had confided to one of our Managers "We don't know what language Madam speaks, but it's not English. "
I no longer answer the phone because the customers would rather hang up than talk to a foreigner, so I am the official seater and greeter. A western woman opening the door in a traditional Sri Lankan Restaurant is not what people are expecting.
I can be a great source of amusement to the staff. When I walked over to one table and asked the customer if he would like a drink, I saw the blank look that came over his face. I could almost hear the cogs turning in his head, weighing up his options,.....thinking "Mmm you're probably a little older than I was hoping for...b.u.u.t...". Putting him out of his misery, I smiled and said "It's OK I actually work here". I now wear a name tag with the Upali logo embossed in big letters.
The Shrine built at the site by the laborers to say their prayers |
Once a month there is a public holiday on the fall of the full moon called Poya. The whole country has the day off regardless of who you worship. Long weekend every month...I think its a great idea. The one detraction is you cannot serve or sell alcohol on Poya, much to the distress of the unsuspecting tourist. Bad luck Valentines Day fell on Poya this year. The hospitality industry lost a fortune not being able to serve Champagne dinners.
I walked into the site one morning to find a Shrine that had been built by the workers so they could conduct their morning prayers. All over the city you see statues of Buddah in every shape and size. Morning commuters stop as they pass by, hold smoking joss sticks in their palms and touch their foreheads. They rock back and forward several times chanting their prayer. No one laughs at them. No one makes fun of them, its the most natural thing in the world to conduct your Religious Worship in public.
Another important tradition is "Kiri Utundra".......We had to perform this ritual before preparing food for the first time in the new kitchen. The milk must boil and overflow. Signifying an abundance of good luck. We had performed this tradition in our own home in Australia, even though David's family is Catholic. I think it is more a cultural thing rather than a Religious one.
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Boiling milk for the first time to signify the opening of the restaurant. After the milk is boiled, it is then sprinkled around the building |
I woke up on our last morning before the opening, voices in my head screaming"ONE MORE DAY PEOPLE!!!!!!' Our Partner Upali nonchalantly wandered into the sight around 8.00am, with his assistants carrying the breakfast he cooked for us each day. Cooking was his passion and his dream of having his own restaurant was about to be realized. He looked as if he didn't have a care in the world. The Dharmadasa family is synonymous amongst the Sri Lankan community. I had seen the raised eyebrows when people found out the Restaurant was owned by Upali Dharmadasa of the Nawaloka Empire. Coming from Australia it had meant nothing to me and I was constantly amazed at how far his influence stretched. When we threw our hands up in frustration because goods and services had not turned up again! One phone call from Upali and all was fixed.
There were people everywhere, the place looked like one of those renovation rescue shows. We were opening in less than 24 hours. Everything was meant to have been completed two weeks ago giving us enough lead in time to train the staff and have all our systems in place. David and I have always been strong critics of slow service and in Sri Lanka it can be really slow. They are not rude, they just don't see the necessity in moving fast, everything happens at its own pace. Service in restaurants is slow. Trying to get your bill takes forever and there is no such thing as ducking into the supermarket to grab a few items. They have introduced electronic scanners, but invariably every third item needs to be keyed in manually.
As we drove to the restaurant that morning the street was lined with Navaloka flags...someone had been busy during the night. I walked up to the balcony, taking a few minutes before the guests started to arrive. I looked at the park across the road. I had been watching the same people sitting on the park benches for the past 12 weeks. They were the street sweepers.
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Last minute touch ups..Staff Briefing..Restoring what nature created and man changed |
Bag of tea time |
Who needs a cup |

Standing room only again |
The place was buzzing.The Presidents security team had been on the premises for the past two days taking the names and identity card numbers of all the staff. Last night they actually slept in the private dining room he was having lunch in today. As we arranged his table we were not allowed to set his place, that would be done after he arrived. When I bought the flowers for the table, the security took them from me gently probing the arrangement for anything suspicious. When I walked in with the pepper grinder, it was "Yeah I know, here you go " and handed it over so they could look inside for unidentified pepper grains. This was the man who had ended the 30 year conflict in the North, maybe he still had a few enemies out there.
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Nawaloka flags flying -The red carpet - Colombo's Mayor lighting the Lamp with Upali |
Looking through my gate watching the world go by. |
I like our new street, it is a moving supermarket. After the children leave for school I have my morning tea sitting on the front terrace. As the driver pulls out, I prefer to leave the front gate open watching Colombo start its day. All the houses are hidden behind huge brick walls. They all employ someone whose only job in life is to open and close the gate. I watched as across the road their gate slowly rumbled open and the occupant drove out. The gate keeper standing in his sarrong and singlet looks up and down the street. Takes a big breath and sucks in the morning air. He will get to go home once a month if he has a family. If he doesn't he will go nowhere. He will live in a small room somewhere at the rear of the house if he is lucky, otherwise he just sleeps on a mat on the floor, his worldly goods in a small chest of drawers or a tiny cupboard. He wont go out in the evenings to a movie and has probably never stepped into a restaurant in his life. His meal will be supplied. He turns and spots me watching him. He looks for a second and then gives a slight nod. I raise my mug a few inches and nod back. Then he is gone, disappearing behind the closing gate, where he will wait for the honk of the car horn that will send him scrambling back into action once again.
A bell is jingling. I wait to see who is coming. Ahh it's the mango man pushing his rickety cart filled with ripe mangoes. Without moving from my chair, I ask Kia Da? How much ??. The price of mangoes suddenly shoots up when he realizes its a foreigner. David steps out, a few more words in Sinhala that are too fast for me to catch and a new price is negotiated. Fresh Mango's.

Fab Cath. And again I feel for you with the kids. Been there done that and still doing it. Di
ReplyDeleteNice to become engrossed by your great story-telling skills again, Cathy. A touch of sadness at the beginning and the end, but packed with a wide range of positive and interesting observations in between - plus your frenetic lifestyle! Good wishes for your new restaurant and your family. Bill.
ReplyDeleteThanks Bill. A tinge of homesickness but back on track now :))
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ReplyDeletenice post bill...thanks for sharing
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I was born in Sri Lanka, but do not have any family there and my husband is English but we both love SL. We have been travelling there for the past 10 years and have seen it grow, change sometime for the better and other times not so good.
ReplyDeleteI came to Upalis last week, with some other friends staying with us and loved everything and will come to your new restaurant soon.
We met David as he was returning to Australia soon, as was I also returning. When my husband returns from SL we will visit your Upalis in Glen Waverly.
Good luck and having children away at school is very hard we did it for 10 years but they have survived to our pride very well.
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Annapurna Base Camp Trek is one in every one of the big ranges that expand from Vara-Shikar (Annapurna Fang) towards Manaslu and Lamjung range that is roughly 60-70 kilometer of lateral distance. which has one peak over eight,000 meters, 13 peaks over seven,000 meters, and sixteen additional over half dozen,000 meters. The landscape of the region provides breathtaking sceneries. the first morning views of the mountains square measure majestic. The sunrise views from on the trail of the trek square measure breathtaking. The treks mix such a large amount of totally different landscapes and convey you, therefore, getting ready to the bottom of seven,000 and 8,000-meter peaks.Annapurna Base Camp trekking designed by Nepal Base Camp Treks is one in every of the foremost loved trekking destinations. throughout the trek except witnessing made cultural diversity, you'll additionally withstand remote farms still as villages occupied by Gurung ethnic tribes WHO square measure popularly celebrated everywhere the planet for his or her bravery. you'll be able to expertise the culture, previous traditions, and spiritual values of grunge individuals. To begin ten days Annapurna Base Camp, we are going to drive to Nayapul from Pokhara and walk right along the trail and keep on trekking downhill following a watercourse to Birethanti. Also, we are going to climb to Jhinu danda wherever we will get pleasure from tumbling within the natural spring. On the thanks to Dovan, we are going to be rewarded by the outstanding views of Mt. Machhapuchhre, Annapurna South, and Huinchuli. Plus, we are going to pass Chomrong, an oversized Gurung village. we are going to additionally pass the tree-plant full of bamboo and bush trees beside the Modi watercourse and reach Donovan. Then we are going to walk for six hours to urge to Annapurna Base Camp lies at the elevation of four,095m via Machhapuchhre base camp that fantastically assaults the northern aspect of the very giant Mt. Machhapuchhre. Walking for around four hours we are going to reach Annapurna Base Camp that enthralls the North American nation with the putting views of the world’s tenth highest Annapurna I ( eight,091 m), Mt. Machhapuchhre Annapurna South, Huinchuli and additional. Trekking Guide Team offers a wonderful probability to travel for Annapurna Base Camp that is one in every of the foremost picturesque and exciting set within the heart of the nice Mt. Annapurna. we are going to cause you to feel the nice distinction if you choose to travel with North American nation since our good staffs and hospitable porters will certainly cause you to trek safe, comfy and unforgettable.
ReplyDeleteEverest Base Camp Trek is one of those journeys that create your vacation dreams return true. Hiking on the legendary foothills just under the mighty Mount Everest 8848m with exciting views of the master peaks will solely be found within the Everest Region. This celebrated trek is thought worldwide for its trailblazing routes & the landscapes speak to your senses. On this trip you furthermore Mera peak out at the celebrated Kala Patthar (5,600m/18,373ft) read purpose for a few grand direct views of the very best mountain in the world. Everest Base CampTrek additionally includes different celebrated eight thousand peaks like Mt mountain peak (8,516m /27,940ft), Makalu (8,485m /27,838 ft) Cho-Oyu (8,201m /26,906ft). The culture of this specific space is of nice notebook stuff & interacting with the native of us puts a lot of zest into your venturesome journey as you walk through the Khumbu region of the Asian country. This legendary path could be a psychological thriller for top & wild hikers World Health Organization want the tread the methods wherever legends walked before on their thanks to conquering mountain peak, some did some didn’t however the Everest Base Camp Trek path keeps those legends alive for many trekkers World Health Organization head to the present region. The trip begins with a stirring mountain flight to Lukla, one among the world’s highest mountains; & as shortly as you set down at that altitude, the remainder is history. Your hike takes you to the favored village city of Namche, referred to as the ‘gateway to the Khumbu’’ & from there on you rehearse quiet monasteries with the acknowledge Sherpa of us World Health Organization inhabit this region & their culture is price noting. On the way, we have a tendency to visit the Sagarmatha parkland, home to some rare fauna & flora, this additionally wherever we have a tendency to adapt for a few time. We head deep into the Khumbu hiking into the forest of shrub, birch trees & pine, with colorful villages wherever we have a tendency to square measure sincerely welcome by the Sherpa community. we have a tendency to square measure pleasantly stunned to return across a hospital-based mostly in Khunde and health post at Pheriche that shows this region not solely cares for the locals however also are able to look out of trekkers World Health Organization have altitude issues. Doctors square measure invariably at the post for aid treatment. The Everest Base Camp Trek is arduous however varied teahouses square measure found on the paths providing smart grubbed to shelter from the generally harsh climate. Our trek culminates at base camp so we have a tendency to create a path for Namche as we have a tendency to hike back to Lukla to rendezvous for our flight to Katmandu. we have a tendency to add an additional contingency day for inclement weather which will delay flights. It’s recommended to be pretty acceptable to undertake this journey; you only want some smart hiking exercise before doing this trip. And Nepal Base Camp Treks can do the remainder to allow you AN action-packed odyssey of a period.
ReplyDeleteWhy Trekking in Nepal Nepal?, a land of high hills, mountains, raging rivers and verdant deep jungles of Terai & its rich lifestyle makes one of the most sought locations inside the map of the world. a destination for all season as it's miles one of the most numerous and varied international locations on this planet a unique us of a nestled inside the excellent snow capped variety is some other advent of the mom earth and it embraces worlds' 8 highest peaks from mt.everest, mt.kanchenjonga, mt.lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu to Annapurna massive. nepal is likewise the beginning location of Buddha (light of Asia). The Buna Treks is Local Base Under Nepal Government Trekking Agency in Nepal. blessed with wealthy nature, the brilliant Himalayan in Nepal range stretches from the far north-west to the way east where the worlds highest 8th eight-thousanders are in Nepal. nepal gives a enthralling adventure with enough time to wonder the encompassing beautiful landscapes and immerse with its warm human beings, imparting you full of range and enchantment from the low lands of Gangetic plains and its verdant dense jungle where the endangered species of Royal Bengal tigers and the one-horned rhinoceros roam, to the mythical yak and yeti trail to Everest.as the adventure and leisure tourism was hooked up in view that late 1960 and 70’s quality travel & trekking enterprise have mushroomed by using a tourism professionals Nepalese, and were leading countless of adventure trips in the course of Himalaya consisting of rafting, mountain climbing also organize adventure trekking, and entertainment trips which includes tailor-made itineraries for own family, college companies and company executives. Many of Trekking Company in Nepal are not perfect trip dealing, they have not enough Experienced. Trekking in Nepal, Nepal is domestic to community of trails also known as the amazing Himalaya trails, an extensive trail gadget that covers Nepal from humble and Darchula within the west to Kanchenjunga in the east. the range of Trekking in Nepal cannot be located in any other location of the world. in fact, the lowest factor in Nepal is fifty-nine m above sea-level inside the terai location even as the very best point is Everest, eight,848 m above sea-level, the two factors are, in a direct line, most effective two hundred kilometers aside. the majority of visitors to Nepal are available through the Tribhuvan international airport in Kathmandu. it's far in Kathmandu that trekkers want to accumulate their permits and other documentation, both from a trekking agent or from the best places of work. those files will be checked along the hiking route. for people with little time to spend in Nepal, there are half of-day hikes from Kathmandu to witness breathtaking Himalayan Trekking in Nepal perspectives in any other case trek for weeks over stunning tough mountain passes. as much as the mid-1960s just a few trekkers had generally visited Nepal and lower back then as part of corporations of excursion fans. the various huge expeditions of the day recommended trekkers to join up in an try to help balance the investment.
ReplyDeleteManaslu Tsum Valley Trekking is freshly open trekking path in Manaslu region. Manaslu Tsum Valley trekking supply stunning Himalayan views of Mt. Manaslu 8163m, Mt. mountain peak 8167m, Mt. Annapurna8091m, twenty-three different mountain peaks, stunning landscape, Tsum Valley and mixed Nepalese culture. Manaslu Tsum Valley trek could be a sacred Everest Trekking Routes circled by the Baudha Himal and Himal Chuli to the west, Ganesh Himal to the South and Sringi Himal to the north. Tsum Valley trekking is finite by 3 high passes Ngula Dhoj Hyang (5093 m.) to the west and Yamdro Pass (5326 m). Tsum word comes from the Tibetan word 'Tsombo', which suggests vividly. Manaslu tsum natural depression trekking tour is restricted trekking in the Kingdom of Nepal and needed special trekking to allow through legal Nepal trekking agency and minimum 2 people participant obligatory trekking in Manaslu Tsum natural depression space. The smart good shape and minimum 3 we tend treks vacation needed for Tsum Valley Trekking, however, Everest Trekking Routes prepare customized trekking service as per trekkers want and vacation schedule. Fall & spring season is the best time trekking in Tsum natural depression, however, we tend to ETR prepare around the year as per trekkers vacation schedule.Manaslu Tsum Valley trekking begins at Arughat Bazaar Gorkha once 6-7 hours drive from Kathmandu. Everest Trekking Routes trekking guide LED through stunning Valley of Machhikhola, Jagat Lakpa River Dupchet and at last reach the Tsum natural depression. Tsum natural depression Trekking has completely different choices Manaslu Circuit Larke larke la pass trekking, Tsum Valley, Manaslu circuit trekking, Manaslu Rupina La pass trekking or solely Tsum natural depression trek begin from Arughat and finish at the same place. Ordinarily, inhabitation / tented trekking is additional appropriate and cozy for Manaslu Tsum Valley trekking however currently a day’s tea house/lodge trekking is worn out this space. We tend to Everest Trekking Routes prepare either tea house or inhabitation trekking as per trekkers want and need. We’ve mentioned below 3 completely different choices trekking in Manaslu tsum Valley, however, trekking itinerary style in keeping with travelers/trekker’s demand.the part of Annapurna and Ganesh Himal between Wilderness and Restricted area of Nepal.
ReplyDeleteTrekking in Nepal is one in all the favored commercial enterprise activities in Nepal trekking is one in all the simplest means of experiencing the natural beauty and wealthy cultural
ReplyDeleteheritage of Nepal. Nepal treks offers snow capped views of Nepal Himalaya, stunning landscape, totally different ethnic teams & their traditions, welcome, lush valleys through forests of bush, bamboo, oak, and hemlock, visiting one or 2 villages to next trekking destination. Nepal isn't merely walking hiking sooner or later when another, it's rather a gradual means of experiencing of Nepal's diversity in terms of earth science, people, faith and a large vary of culture. Shiva Excursion is Local Trekking Agency in Nepal may be each day hike to nduce to the highest on a mountain or a ridge for the spectacular views of mountain chain peaks or it may be a hiking for a month passing through villages within the shadow of lofty snow peaks, valleys, notch experiencing wealthy culture, custom and also the impressive views of the Himalaya in Asian nation. the target of Trekking in Nepal isn't simply the actual destination, however the journey itself. You travel at a modest pace, observant nature, rural communities, and spectacular mountain panoramas whereas you're trekking in Himalaya . Shiva Excursion old trekking guide can lead for path finding an introduction to the native individuals, culture, faith and mode. Under Nepal Government License holder Trekking Company in Nepal which is lead by Over 20 Years Trekking and Tour Operation Highly Recommend Everest Base Camp Trek and Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Because these Trip are most Popular and Challenging and top Destination in Nepal. Most of the Adventure, Moderate, and Easy hiking and Hard Passes Organized in Nepal. not that much enough some of Top Peak Climbing as Island Peak Climbing, Mera Peak Climbing, Lobuche Peak and Many others real adventure path of Nepal. In Nepal More then 3000 threkking Agencies and all are competion for the business sector. Some one selling cheapest and some one selling top and quality service. those Agencies as over 30% are fake travel dealing.
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ReplyDeleteseriously missing out! Not solely is it a fine looking journey, however it additionally Journey Nepal Adventure
Leaking. The land of the Himalayas, Nepal presents wonders that area unit breath-taking. From the chain of
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square measure fearless leisure pursuits for people that need some ‘real fun’ in their hard-earned break. Trekking
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The Kingdom of Nepal offers a spread of each technical and nontechnical walks across its fantastically numerous
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Namaste Dear Valuables Trekkers and Climber Well, Adventure Everest Team is Mainly Organized Peak
ReplyDeleteClimbing and Everest Expedition in Nepal and also those where
are most popular Trekking Route as well. The Basically Everest base camp Trek, Everest
Chola Pass Trek and Gokyo LakeTrek, Everest Three pass trek, Phaplu to Everest Base Camp and Everest Panorama Trek.
These trip are most popular and Best Hiking in Nepal. the Trip start from lukla to Lukla or phaplu to all the way
up everest base camp return to lukla fly back to Kathmandu.
Adventure Everest Team is local base and Under Nepal government license holder Trekking Agency in Nepal which is more the 20 Years Experienced in
this tourism industry. Base Full Board Packages Selling and Mostly Organized Peak Climbing Expedition in nepal. The
Island Peak Climbing, Lobuche
Peak Climbing, Ramdung Peak Climbing, Amadablam Expedition in nepal. there are not that lead to Adventure type of
Expedition. we do have Mt Everest Expedition, Lhotse Expedition, Pumori Expedition, Nuptse Expedition, Barutse
Expedition and Many Others Expedition in Nepal. these all trip are east part of Nepal. Mr Kul Bahadur Tamang run by
Local Trekking Company in Nepal. as Professional team and Most
of the Climbing guide are already maded Everest Expedition and over 8000 meters. and license holder Mountain
Guide. Generarly Mr Kul run Hotel in Dingboche Good luck make happy to all of Clients and combine both Trekking
Company in Nepal. The main aim is how to make happy all of valuable clients those who are travelling in Nepal.
Secondary trip selling in Annapurna Region which is most popular trip Annapurna Base Camp Trek, mardi himal trek,
Annapurna Circuit trek, Manaslu
Circuit Trek, manaslu Tsum Valley Trek, Upper Mustang Trek, Kanchenjunga Trek, Upper Dolpo trek and Rara Lake
Trek. these trip is South Part of Nepal. Chulu West peak Climbing and Chulu East Peak Climbing is very general and
Popular Trekking Peak Climbing in Nepal.
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ReplyDelete14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek high light trekking route in Manaslu Trekking Packages, and magical beaten track of hidden Valley Manaslu Larke La Pass 5150m. After Annapurna Circuit Trekking Most of Trekkers are thinking about the round Manaslu Trekking. The Manaslu Circuit Trek is restricted area of Special Trekking Path in Nepal and day by day Trekkers Demand increased and also develops lodge accommodation and foods. There is some option if some of trekkers has more holidays and want to see nicer Himalayan tropical villages Monastery and Trans Himalayan people they can select Manslu Tsum Valley Trek. That can make both destination combined Tsum Valley and Manaslu Base Cam with Lark La Pass. The Manaslu Trekking is little more expensive than others Trekking Routes, Because those trekkers who are interest to go Round Manslu Larke la pass or Manaslu Tsum Valley they have to buy four type of Trekking Permits as Manaslu conservation area of Project (MCAP), Manaslu Restricted Permit, Tsum Valley Restricted Permit and Annapurna Conservation Area of Project (ACAP).
ReplyDeleteEverest Trekking Routes has Professional Mountain Guide Team works with all Expert Local Porters those who are real typical himalayan people. our Expert Trekking Guide has well train and Best Packages Selling Trekking in Nepal. and now Highly Popular Manaslu Trekking which is short and suitable trip in Nepal.
14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek Start from Kathmandu to Arughat to Sotikhola by Public bus or Jeep and Trek to Machhakhola, Jagat, Filim, Deng, Namrung, Lho, Sama Gaun, Samdo, Larke La Pass, Bhimtang, Gho, Tilje, Dharapani and Drive to Besi sahar to Kathmandu. During this trip can get amazing Himalayan flavor with outstanding white Himalayan scenery which of eight top high peak Manaslu Expedition and Ganesh Himal, Singi Himal, Annapurna II, Annapurna IIII, gangapurna, Lamjung and Many Others Trekking Peaks. Everest Trekking Routes Selling 14 Days Manaslu Circuit Trek full board Packages Kathmandu to Kathmandu. If anyone interest can contact us directly thank you.
Email: info@everesttrekkingroutes.com
www.everesttrekkingroutes.com
www.adventuremountainguide.net